Bardsey & the Lleyn peninsular - land of saints and sea

 

In ancient times the north-west extension of Wales, with the island of Bardsey (Ynys Enlli) at its tip (see left - click on picture to enlarge), was a place of pilgrimage but in more modern times it has become somewhere to go for a holiday. The coast line is rugged but inland it is more rounded and green. Because those living there tend to use Welsh as their first language and are proud of their local culture, it has a different feel to the nearest large urban centres (Liverpool, Manchester, Stoke-on-Trent and Birmingham, all in England - see map below & click to enlarge) but has the attraction of a journey to a different country that can be reached in a few hours.

 

A picture can, it is said, save a thousand words, so I hope that those shown below (all of which can be enlarged by clicking on them) can indicate more directly why this area is such a special place for my family and many of my friends and neighbours here in Trentham, which is over one hundred miles to the east (to the south of Stoke but not named on the map shown) but was once on a pilgrims' route to both Bardsey and the larger island of Anglesey, to its north.

 

Aberdaron, viewed from the headland, is where ancient and modern travellers alike stay before making the journey to Bardsey

St Hywyn's Church, Aberdaron (photograph courtesy of the shop within the church building) contains much interesting information about local history and worship

Ynys Enlli (Bardsey's welsh name) means isle of the tides and is believed by some to be 'Avalon' where Arthur was taken when wounded. Even today, the short boat journey from Porth Meudwy near Aberdaron is not without its hazards but is chosen by those seeking both spiritual solace and closeness to nature.

Arthur, leader of the British resistance against the encroachment of Anglo-Saxon settlers is said to have met forces led by his nephew (or son) Mordred (or Medraut) (possibly in AD 537 according to Barber & Pykitt) in a battle that may have been fought at Cadlan (the name translates into English as 'battlefield'), pictured here from the shore at Porth Ysgo

Abersoch, which is to the east of Aberdaron, developed during the 20th century into a favourite sea-side playground for generations of visitors from Cheshire and Staffordshire in England

This view, taken from the grounds of Porth Tocyn Hotel, overlooking Abersoch, show the beauty of the coastline looking towards Pwllheli, Criccieth and Porthmadog, which is at the south-eastern base of the Lleyn peninsular

Criccieth is perhaps best known for its mediaeval castle built on a headland that gave it additional protection on the seaward side

The castle guarded the southern route into the Lleyn and had a commanding view of the estuary that leads inland to Porthmadog and the fantasy village of Porth Merion

The Italianate fantasy village of Porth Merion, which is close to Porthmadog, was designed by Welsh architect Clough Williams-Ellis and became popular to visitors from the 1930s.

Porth Merion achieved cult status as the setting for the television drama 'The Prisoner'. The estuary, on which it is built, opens out into Cardigan Bay and the view towards the Lleyn, to the west

 

Paul Newman

October 03

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